How to Cook Rice Properly (and Why I Own a Rice Cooker)

Rice is the foundation of most of what I cook, and it is the thing people most consistently get slightly wrong. Not catastrophically wrong. Just wet, or gluey, or dry on top and scorched on the bottom, in a way that quietly drags down every dish you put on it.

It takes about five minutes of understanding to fix permanently.

The ratio #

Most rice packages say two cups of water per cup of rice. For long grain white rice, that is too much, and it is the single most common cause of mushy rice.

The number that works is closer to 1.25 to 1.5 cups of water per cup of rice for jasmine or other long grain white rice. I use 1.25 and get separate, distinct grains. If you like it softer, go to 1.5.

Brown rice is a different animal and wants about 2 to 2.25 cups of water and roughly twice the cooking time, because the bran layer is still on and takes longer to hydrate.

The finger method is the traditional version of this and it works: put the rinsed rice in the pot, level it, rest your fingertip on the surface of the rice, and add water until it reaches the first knuckle. It self-corrects for the amount of rice, which is why it survived a few thousand years without anyone owning a measuring cup.

Rinse it #

Put the rice in the pot, cover with cold water, swirl it with your hand, and pour off the cloudy water. Repeat two or three times until the water runs mostly clear.

What you are washing off is loose surface starch. Leave it on and it gelatinizes during cooking and glues the grains together. This is the difference between rice that falls apart into separate grains and rice that comes out as a single mass.

It takes ninety seconds. Do not skip it, and do not overdo it either. Three rinses is plenty, and washing until the water is perfectly clear strips flavor for no benefit.

The stovetop method #

  1. Rinse the rice, drain it, and put it in a pot with a tight lid.
  2. Add water at your chosen ratio.
  3. Bring it to a boil uncovered, on high.
  4. As soon as it boils, drop the heat to the lowest setting your stove will hold and cover it.
  5. Cook for 12 to 15 minutes without lifting the lid. Every time you lift it, steam escapes, and the steam is doing the cooking.
  6. Turn the heat off and let it sit, still covered, for 10 minutes.
  7. Fluff with a fork or a rice paddle and serve.

That step six is the one everyone skips and the one that matters most. During the rest, moisture redistributes from the wetter bottom to the drier top, and the grains firm up. Rice served straight off the heat is wetter at the bottom and looser than it should be. Ten minutes of doing nothing fixes it.

Why I own a rice cooker #

I resisted for years on the grounds that a pot already exists and a rice cooker is a single-purpose appliance taking up counter space in a small apartment. I was wrong, and it is one of the better thirty dollars I have spent on a kitchen.

A basic rice cooker is $25 to $40 and does one thing that a pot cannot: it decides when the rice is done. The mechanism is elegantly dumb. A weighted magnetic switch sits under the pot, and while there is free water the temperature stays at boiling. The instant the water is absorbed, the temperature starts to climb past boiling, the magnet releases, and it clicks to warm. It is not measuring time or guessing. It is detecting the actual physical event you care about.

What that buys you in practice:

It is genuinely unattended. Put rice and water in, press the switch, walk away. No timer, no checking, no scorched bottom because you were finishing the stir fry and got distracted, which happens to me approximately always.

It holds. The keep-warm function means dinner does not have to be synchronized. Rice can be done twenty minutes before everything else and be fine.

It is consistent. Same result every time, which sounds boring and is exactly what you want from the thing under every meal.

The expensive Japanese induction models are genuinely better, with fuzzy logic and multiple cooking programs, and they cost $150 to $400. If you eat rice every day and it matters to you, they are a reasonable thing to want. For most people the $30 model produces rice that is 95 percent as good, and buying the cheap version of something that does the same job is most of what this site is about.

What it costs #

A 25 pound bag of jasmine rice at a Chinese grocery runs somewhere around $20 to $30 depending on the brand and the week. That is about 250 cooked servings.

Call it ten cents a serving. A cup of dry rice is two to three servings and costs about a quarter.

It also keeps essentially forever in a sealed container, which makes it one of the few genuinely good bulk buys for a small household. Unlike most warehouse-store bulk items, you will not throw any of it away. Costco sells it too, at roughly the same price as a Chinese grocery, so buy it wherever you are already going.

Fixing what went wrong #

Mushy and wet. Too much water, or you skipped the rinse. Next time use 1.25 to 1 and rinse. Salvage the current pot by taking the lid off and cooking on very low for a few more minutes to drive off moisture.

Crunchy in the middle. Not enough water, or the heat was too high so the water boiled off before the grains hydrated. Add a couple of tablespoons of hot water, cover, and give it five more minutes on the lowest heat.

Burnt on the bottom. Heat too high during the covered phase. Your lowest setting may still be too hot, in which case use a heat diffuser or move to a heavier pot. Incidentally, the crispy layer at the bottom is a delicacy in several cuisines and is only a failure if you did not want it.

Gluey. You did not rinse. That is the whole answer.

Leftover rice is the point #

Cook more than you need. Cold day-old rice is the required ingredient for egg fried rice, which is the best cheap meal in this entire section, and fresh warm rice makes bad fried rice no matter what else you do right.

Store it in the fridge in a sealed container for up to four days. Reheat with a splash of water, covered, in the microwave, and it comes back close to fresh.

One food safety note that is worth taking seriously: cooked rice left at room temperature for hours can grow Bacillus cereus, which produces a toxin that reheating does not destroy. Get it into the fridge within a couple of hours rather than leaving the pot on the stove overnight. This is one of the few genuinely risky bits of ordinary home cooking and it is easy to avoid.

Rice under mapo tofu, under red braised pork belly, or turned into congee covers a large share of what I eat. Getting it right costs nothing and improves every meal it appears in.